August Issue of the Penn State University Ornamental Horticulture Monthly Newsletter
Ornamental Horticulture Monthly Newsletter
Volume 1 No. 6, August 1998

Hanging Baskets and Container Gardens
(News from the Ohio Short Course)
Robert Berghage, Assistant Professor of Horticulture

One of the most popular educational sessions at the Short Course this year was a session on hanging baskets and container gardens, where it was standing room only. This is not too surprising. Baskets and specialty containers have become very profitable for many independent retailers. Considering the popularity or the program I thought a summary for those unable to attend might prove beneficial. The following concepts and information were presented by Terri Woods Starman from the University of Tennessee and Tom Smith from Four Star Greenhouses Inc.

There are many plants and a near infinite number of combinations that can be used for containers and baskets. Of course, some combinations work well and others are simply put - disasters. Perhaps the best way to determine which combinations work is to observe the combinations put together by someone else. So what works? Several things became clear to me while listening to the speakers of this program.

Simple is Good!
Some of the best pots are simple combinations two or three plants. The best pots shown during the seminar were relatively simple combinations put together by Four Star greenhouses. More complicated mixtures can work too, but they often seem to become too busy, with many plants getting lost in the mix. Tom stated that "We want all the plants we put in a mixed basket to be there at the end of the season". This makes good sense. Why pay for, and go through all the trouble of planting and growing, plants that will not contribute to the overall performance of the container?

Put Together Plants of Similar Vigor
This goes with rule one. If the vigor of the plants in the container is closely matched, it is much less likely that one will dominate another and eliminate it from the pot. If you must use a plant that is not too vigorous, use other similar plants. An exception might be a less vigorous upright plant in the center of the container combined with vigorous trailing plants.

Use Enough Plants to Fill the Container
Most of the best containers have plants planted in groups of 3 and 4. Two plants in a container seem to produce what Terri called "dog eared" plants. The third and 4th plant of each cultivar provides balance and can greatly reduce production time.

Consider the "Elements of Design"
Florists are trained to work with texture and color when making a floral arrangement. Creating a mixed container is a similar process. Mix textures to provide depth and visual interest in the container. Work with the colors using the color wheel. Analogous and complementary color combinations seem to work well in mixed containers. Analogous colors are closely related, for example red and red violet. Complementary colors are opposite each other on the color wheel, for example yellow and violet. Some of the best combinations in the program used the neutral white flowers, or silver gray foliage to help show off the other colors. Many nice color combinations can be easily obtained by using some of the "Theme Mixed Impatiens" available from seed. For example Goldsmith Seed's "Accent Pastel Mixture", Ball Seeds' "Dazzler Peacock Mix", "Tempo Wedgwood Mix" from Bodger seeds, and many others can be used to create a nice color mix in a container.

Use Plants that Grow Together in Baskets
Containers can be "grow-together"or "put-together". Terri Woods Starman described a grow together pot as one where the plugs are planted together in the container or basket and then grow together. A put-together pot, in contrast is constructed from plants that are near the finish size and are combined shortly before marketing. Put-together seems to work well for patio containers, but the best baskets shown in the program were grow-together.

Use Large Containers
The size of the container determines the media volume and thus water and nutrient holding capacity. If you define a 10" basket as 100% then an 8" basket will only hold 45-50% and a 6" basket 15-20% of the medium by volume. Some of the best baskets from Four Star greenhouses were planted in 12" square fiber pots.

Don't Put Too Much Time Into Your Baskets
Better baskets are grown later in the season. Growing a basket too long results in plants that are difficult to ship. Remember that even in a retail greenhouse the plant has to be transported home by the consumer. A plant that is too big will be difficult to put in the car and may be severely damaged in transport.

Grow Plenty of Smaller Pots Too
If you grow great combination pots, some of your customers are going to want to duplicate them at home in some "special" container of their own. Be sure that you have some of the same plants available in smaller containers to capture that sale too.

My Favorite Combinations from the Program:
These are the best of the combinations from Four Star Greenhouses. Use this as a guide for plants that work together, but remember that other cultivars may be available that are just as good.

(Plant Number and Size)

10 INCH BASKET

12 INCH BASKET

12 INCH FIBER BASKET (Red, White and Blue)

14 INCH UPRIGHT POT

Toxic or Sour Mulch
Jim Sellmer

Reports of chlorotic, scorched, or dying bedding plants due to "toxic mulch" occur every year, and excessively wet conditions followed by heat are often the precursor to these reports and probably increase its occurrence. Organic mulches can undergo anaerobic (without oxygen) fermentation when stored for extended periods in piles greater than six eight feet in height. Little or no oxygen is available in the middle of these piles. The chemicals (ammonia and alcohol) produced by fermenting organisms can be quite toxic to plants. Annual plants can be severely damaged or killed outright by toxic fumes or direct contact with the mulch; perennial plants most likely will exhibit leaf chlorosis and defoliation.

Fortunately, "toxic mulch syndrome" is quite easy to diagnose and prevent. Mulch that has gone anaerobic will have a very strong, acrid, sour odor. In contrast, mulch that is safe to use will have a pleasant, musk smell like freshly cut wood or compost.

To avoid the formation of sour mulch, store mulch in piles less than eight feet high, or periodically turn higher piles with a front end loader to maintain aeration of the pile. Similarly, sour mulch can be detoxified by thoroughly leaching it and allowing it to aerate for several days.

Information provided by Rob Berghage and Jim Sellmer Penn State Department of Horticulture, Ornamental Horticulture Extension Specialist, 103 Tyson Building, University Park, PA 16802, (814) 863-2571

This publication is available in alternate media upon request

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