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Volume 3 No. 1, February 2000
"Spreading"
Petunias
Robert D. Berghage Introduction Figure 1. Angles measured for the longest and tallest lateral shoot. Results and Discussion Figure 2. Height to width ratio of petunia cultivars. Figure 3. "Stem" and "Shoot tip" angles of petunia cultivars.
Figure 4. Base and tip angles of the longest branch on various petunia
cultivars.
Drought and
the Landscape
Jim Sellmer
Our present drought status has changed from a vast majority of the state being under a Drought Emergency in August to the western half under a drought Warning and the eastern half under a drought Watch. What this means even with the snow and rain is that we can expect another hazardous growing season if our precipitation rate (slow soaking rains) does not pickup this spring. Most often, our response to drought does not occur until we see signs of drought stress. Then we consider what we should do. In order to reduce that tendency the following describes some of the signs and symptoms of drought and some methods for controlling or reducing drought stress. Progressive water stress symptoms in plants include: Leaf scorch: Leaf tissue away from the main veins browns and dies due to loss of large amounts of moisture without replacement by the roots due to low soil moisture on deciduous plants. This may be confused with anthracnose; however, moisture stress induced necrosis rarely crosses over leaf veins on the inner section of the leaf area. Leaf scorch tends to be most severe in the upper branches of the tree or shrub in contrast to anthracnose that is evident in the lower branches. Maples and dogwood readily show leaf scorch symptoms. Needle tip die back is a common symptom to moisture stress in conifers. Interveinal necrosis: The leaf tissue surrounding major veins remains green but the tissues between the veins turn brown. This can be confused with nutrient deficiency, specifically micronutrients such as iron. Knowing the pH and soil fertility in your planting beds combined with keeping track of rainfall rates can help you to differentiate between the two issues. Midsummer defoliation (leaf drop): This is commonly preceded by scorch and necrosis mentioned above. Defoliation will begin at the top of the tree and move downward. Other issues that may be confused with drought stress induced leaf drop are verticillium wilt and girdling root. Although both may affect water uptake, the reasons are clearly different. Both of these problems will be manifested in trees if water stress is present. Being aware of verticillium wilt will help you to determine if this soil borne disease a problem. See the fact sheet at http://www.cas.psu.edu/docs/CASDEPT/PLANT/ext/vertwilt.htmlto learn more about wilt. Investigating the root flare may help you in determining if girdling root is a problem on your tree. Unabscised dead leaves remaining on the tree: Oaks and other deciduous trees may show complete browning of foliage and the foliage remains attached. If the leaf loss occurs too rapidly for the abscission layer to form, the tree will remain in full leaf but brown. Realities of drought stress symptoms: 1) In a single year, moisture stress symptoms may not appear until late in the summer after extensive hot and dry windy weather. 2) Extended drought stress (more than one season) can result in crown decline, twig die back, small branch die back in the upper crown and progressively larger branches can succumb or are vulnerable to breakout under strong wind conditions. Suckering may occur on the trunk and upper branches of heavily stressed trees, cambium death and cankers may also occur resulting in the girdling of the tree and total tree death. Often cankers may be the direct result of moisture stress or may occur with the development of disease which produce cankers while the tree is severely stressed and susceptible. Another symptom of extended drought stress is heavy seed loads the year following the drought. 3) Often the symptoms of drought stress are delayed. Water deficiency may cause extensive root injury in the late summer and fall. The current year's foliage may not reveal any symptoms. Conifers are an example of a plant that by the time it expresses symptoms of stress the plant is already in dangerously poor health. In sum, the symptoms and effects of the drought may not appear until the following year when rainfall is normal. Tips for avoiding water stress situations: 1) Keep track of rainfall amounts at your location 2)Supplement with an efficient watering system such as drip irrigation 3) Scout your plants for signs of water stress and use indicator plants to assist you in measuring need for supplemental watering Good indicator plants include Viburnum tomentosum var. plicatum 'Doublefile Viburnum', Azalea, Cornus sp. (Dogwood), Forsythia, Acer palmatum (Japanese maple), Cercis canadensis (Redbud), Hydrangea sp., annuals, and herbaceous perennials. 4) Keep an eye on trees near normally wet areas (streams, lakes, low areas). Once their access for water has been diminished, these plants will have a great susceptibility for damage because their root systems are not sufficiently developed for mining water outside of their root zone. 5)In the landscape, consider designing with water use in mind and target not irrigated areas with more drought tolerant species. 6) Mulch landscape beds to maintain moisture with 3 to 4 inches of well-composted organic matter. 7) Designing group plantings can provide greater for water management. Beware of over-planting, over-planting can place further stress on the soil moisture available to the plantings. Guide lines for watering: During establishment, trees should be provided with 1-2 gallons/inch trunk caliper through a slow, soaking system such as drip irrigation, irrigator tree watering bags place close to the flare or collar of the tree. Watering approximately 2-3 times per week for at least the first 8-10 weeks after planting should be sufficient. Shrubs and smaller container trees (1-3 gallon pot size) require 3-5 gallons of water 2 times a week. These rates should be modified based on the amount and frequency of your rainfall. After establishment, the frequency can be reduced to once a week and the area of water coverage should be increased to assure that the growing edge of the root ball is receiving moisture (water beyond the drip line). A rate of 1 gall/square foot of soil surface area within the root zone of the plant should be covered. Watering should be slow assuring moisture reaching a depth of 8 inches. Do not allow runoff. If runoff is visible then reduce the rate of watering and keep track of the amount of water going onto the area. More is not better in this case.
Sales Tax
and Snow Removal
James P. Sargent, SE Region Extension Business Agent
Checkout the Conference Calendar Website at http://hortweb.cas.psu.edu/ohortex/greenindustrycal.html If you have, programs that you would like added to the calendar, please forward the information to Jim Sellmer at jcs32@psu.edu. Review the information provided on the site and provide similar information for your program. Thanks!
Information provided by Rob
Berghage and
Jim Sellmer Return To Ornamental Horticulture Newsletter Page
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